Information and history of rubies plus a gallery of rubies used in antique and vintage brooches. The quality of a ruby is determined by its color, cut, and clarity, which, along with carat weight, affect its value. The brightest and most valuable shade of red called blood-red or pigeon blood, commands a large premium over other rubies of similar quality. After color follows clarity: similar to diamonds a clear stone will command a premium, but a ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions may indicate that the stone has been treated. Ruby is the traditional birthstone for July and is usually more pink than garnet, although some rhodolite garnets have a similar pinkish hue to most rubies. The world’s most valuable ruby is the Sunrise Ruby. Reference: Wikipedia
A 19th century diamond and ruby brooch Designed as a floral spray, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds and oval-cut ruby accents, the flowerhead mounted en tremblant and set with a central old brilliant-cut diamond, the petals set with cushion-shaped rubies, principal diamond approx. 1.30cts, later brooch fitting, 19th century composite, length 8.0cm.
Sold for £ 3,125 inc. premium at Bonhams in2018
13th century Annular brooch; gold, ruby, sapphire; the obverse set alternately with rubies and sapphires and punched decoration; the pin set with a sapphire; the reverse with an enamelled inscription ‘IO SUI ICI EN LIU DAMI: AMO:’ (I am here in the place of the friend I love)
Medieval jewellery and rings were often exchanged between lovers. Some pieces bear inscriptions or posies indicating the sentiment behind the gift. Such posies were rarely the invention of the purchaser, but were usually chosen from a repetitive stock of phrases.
Reference: © The Trustees of the British Museum
AN ELEGANT RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘CAMELLIA’ BROOCH, BY CHANEL Centering upon a cushion-cut ruby pistil, weighing approximately 3.22 carats, within an overlapping pavé-set ruby petal surround, accented by circular-cut diamond veining, 2 3/4 ins., with French assay mark for 18k gold and jeweler’s mark Signed Chanel, no. 13E 173 Accompanied by report no. CS 68019-D dated 29 May 2015 from the AGL American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this ruby would be classified as Thailand, with standard heat enhancement and minor clarity enhancement
Sold for USD 187,500 at Christies in 2018
Gold, Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Brooch 14 kt., 22 square-cut rubies ap. 1.50 cts., 16 round diamonds ap. .45 ct., c. 1940, ap. 6.8 dwts.
Rubies: deep raspberry to deep purplish-red, slightly included, lively. Diamonds: H-I-VS-SI. 1 x 2 1/4 inches.
Sold for $1,125 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle New York in 2018
An Antique ruby, seed pearl and diamond portrait brooch
19th century, silver-topped 18K yellow gold Set with rose-cut diamonds and rubies, further set with eight seed pearls enclosing a woman’s portrait 1 3/8″ L x 1 1/4″ W 10.4 grams
Sold for $800 at John Moran Auctioneers, Inc. in 2018
Peacock feather brooch
Naturalistic motifs became increasingly popular for jewelry designs in the second half of the nineteenth century, and brooches were frequently designed with a vertical axis in contrast to the horizontal format often used earlier in the century. This brooch in the form of a peacock feather employs an emerald to serve as the eye of the feather, with a circle of rubies forming the outer edge of the eye motif. Diamonds cut in two different patterns complete the feather design. Last quarter 19th century
Reference: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Ruby and diamond brooch
Set with a cabochon ruby, framed with circular-cut rubies and diamonds.
Sold for 23,750 CHF at Sotheby’s in 2018
Miniature pendant badge of the Order of Santiago composed of emeralds and diamond sparks set in gold with a ruby pendant sword cross. Late 18th century.
Reference: © Victoria and Albert Museum
