Cartier Brooch / Jewellery Maker

Cartier is well known for its jewelry and wristwatches, including the “Bestiary” (best illustrated by the Panthère brooch of the 1940s created for Wallis Simpson), the diamond necklace created for Bhupinder Singh the Maharaja of Patiala, and the “Santos” wristwatch of 1904.Founded in Paris, France, in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the company remained under family control until 1964. The company maintains its headquarters in Paris, although it is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Compagnie Financière Richemont SA in Switzerland.

Gem set and diamond pendant brooch, Cartier — Gem set and diamond pendant brooch. Designed as a dome set with brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, signed Cartier, indistinctly numbered, case stamped Cartier. Sold for 8,750 GBP at Sothebys

Cartier Coral, Diamond, and Emerald Flower Brooch

A multi-gem 'Cowboy Duck' Brooch by Cartier. — A multi-gem ‘Cowboy Duck’ Brooch. The carved agate duck with gold beak, coral feet and circular-cut sapphire eye, wearing a gold cowboy hat and neck scarf, with gold holster and coral pistol, circa 1950, 2 ins., mounted in 18k gold, in a Cartier red case Signed Cartier, Made in France, no. 13390, with maker’s marks. Sold for USD 43,750 at Christies

'Panthère' brooch, by Cartier — A ‘Panthère’ brooch designed as a prowling panther with circular-cut emerald eyes and an onyx nose, signed Cartier, numbered, maker’s mark, French assay marks, length 5.3cm, maker’s case and certificate of authenticity. Sold for £3,500 at Bonhams

Founded in Paris, France, in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the company remained under family control until 1964. The company maintains its headquarters in Paris, although it is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Compagnie Financière Richemont SA in Switzerland.

The firm has a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. For example, the Manchester Tiara was made by Cartier, Paris, in 1903 to the order of Consuelo, Dowager Duchess of Manchester. Cartier’s records note that she supplied over a thousand brilliant-cut diamonds and more than 400 rose-cut diamonds, while Cartier supplied further rose-cut diamonds and the paste stones which make up the scrolls at the end of each side.

This tiara of graduated flaming hearts and C scrolls was inspired by a vision of France before the Revolution. Louis Cartier encouraged his designers to sketch 18th-century ironwork and architectural ornament in Paris and Versailles, and to study engraved jewellery designs.

Consuelo, Duchess of Manchester (1858-1909), was the daughter of Antonio Yznaga del Valle, of Ravenswood, Louisiana, New York and Cuba. Consuelo was taken by her mother to Paris where her American friends included Jennie Jerome, later to be the mother of Winston Churchill and Alva Smith, later to be Alva Vanderbilt. Consuelo married George Victor Drogo Montagu, Viscount Mandeville, the future 8th Duke of Manchester, in 1876. The Duke of Portland recorded that she ‘took Society completely by storm by her beauty, wit and vivacity and it was soon at her very pretty feet’. She became a friend of Queen Alexandra to whom she bequeathed a bracelet on her death in 1909. A letter to the Times described her as ‘one of the first of the American ladies who married into the great English families, and who brought to this country that rare combination of high intelligence, a sunny nature and uncommon personal charm’. Reference: Victoria and Albert Museum.

Cartier is one of the most recognisable names in jewellery.

Onxy, Emerald and Diamond Hat Brooch by Cartier

Cartier panthere brooch — A Gem-set and Diamond ‘Panthère’ Brooch, by Cartier, Circa 1980 Realistically designed as a panther, the body pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, embellished with cabochon onyx spots, completed by pear-shaped emerald eyes, diamonds approximately 2.80 carats total, signed Cartier, maker’s mark, French assay marks, width 5.6cm. Sold for HK$ 312,500 at Bonhams

Cartier Diamond Platinum Clip Brooch — Diamond and platinum clip brooch containing a carved Indian emerald, with hinged fitting for the double prong at the top and set with round and baguette-cut diamonds, forming a lotus-like flower head. The stone itself is Mughal late 17th-early 18th century and bears on the front a single bloom with radiating petals, the tips of which are turned over creating a three-dimensional effect. At the back the carving depicts a triple leaf with surrounding foliage. The stone is drilled at top and bottom with suspension holes for hanging on a necklace. The setting forms a cage at the back to secure the stone; when the hinged double prong fitting is opened, a pair of short reverse pointing prongs is visible on the upper bar of the cagework frame to hold the brooch firmly in place. In the original red leather Cartier case labelled as for 2001,0505.7. Marker’s mark.© British Museum

Cartier gemset bird brooch — A CHARMING BLACK OPAL, MULTI-GEM AND DIAMOND BIRD BROOCH,.Designed as a bird perched on a polished gold branch, with a black opal body, diamond-set head with oval-cut ruby eye, and calibré-cut sapphire, emerald and ruby crest, 2 1/2 ins., mounted in gold. Signed Cartier, no. 112414. Sold for USD 100,000 at Christies

Cartier amethyst diamond bird brooch — Amethyst, turquoise, diamond, and 18k yellow gold bird brooch Designed as a bird on a branch, its body is (1) pear-cut amethyst, weighing approximately 13.00 cts., its eye a marquise-cut diamond, weighing approximately 0.25 ct., its head accented by (16) round turquoise cabochons, the tail and branch enhanced by (7) full-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 0.50 ct., set in an 18k yellow gold mounting, measuring approximately 55.5 x 45.4 mm, completed by a hinged, double clip, signed Cartier 436, gross weight 14.93 grams. Sold for $16,000 at Clars Auction Gallery

Cartier Emerald and sapphire brooch — In 1911 Jacques Cartier, head of the London branch of the family firm, traveled to India to source gems and cultivate Indian clients. By the 1920s, socialites in Europe and the United States as well as men and women of the Indian nobility were sporting Mughal gems in settings fashioned by Cartier and other European jewelers. To this day, Cartier and other elite jewelers in Europe and India have continued to use Mughal gems as the centerpieces of their creations. This large octagonal Mughal emerald is decorated with a carved lotus blossom rosette and four leafy stalks extending in the cardinal directions. The stone itself is thin, having been cut down, perhaps in the early twentieth century, when it was set in a platinum mount by Cartier. Although the stone originally may have been set in a bazuband, armor worn by men on the upper arm, Cartier repurposed it as a brooch, presumably for a woman. Along the edges of the octagon, square cabochon sapphires alternate with an emerald-set arch enclosing a trefoil of three round cabochon sapphires and terminating in emerald volutes, intersected on each side by two sapphires. The brooch may have been made for one of Cartier’s American clients.

Cartier Turtle Brooch — Gem set and diamond brooch. Designed as a turtle, collet-set with a cabochon chalcedony accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker’s marks. Sold for 8,750 CHF at Sothebys

Cartier Beef Eater Brooch — Bust of a Beefeater in carved coral, with chalcedony ruff, black onyx hat with diamond decorations, and with gold pike and detailing. Brooches depicting the distinctively British figure of a Beefeater from the Tower of London were made by Cartier over a number of years. They apparently sold particularly well around the time of the coronation in 1953. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Cartier rabbit brooch — A mid 20th century diamond and gem-set novelty brooch. The textured rabbit, with brilliant-cut diamond ears and circular-shape ruby eye, holding a coral carrot. Signed Cartier. Estimated total diamond weight 0.30ct. Length 3.4cms. Weight 7.3gms. Coral untested. Sold for £1,100 at Fellows

Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier (1819 – 1904).

The firm was taken over and expanded by his grandsons Louis, Jacques and Pierre. Each of the grandsons took over the operations of the salons in Paris, London and New York. They are renown for their quality designs.

Louis Cartier was the master of the “garland style”. This style was used during the Edwardian era and was based on designs from the eighteenth century. In fact, Louis Cartier encouraged his designers to consult original eighteenth century pattern books and also to wander through the streets of Paris to take sketches of eighteenth century architectural details.

One of Cartier’s most popular designs was a diamond hat brooch with onxy, and emeralds. This was created around 1920 – 1925. Today, they are probably most famous for their expensive, quality watches.