Blackamoor Brooches
Blackamoor brooches and jewellery is jewellery which depicts black figures within the design. Blackamoor jewellery is also known as Moretti jewellery and it is believed that it was originally created as amulets to ward off evil, or invasion by the Moors into Italy
Blackamoor brooches are often made of black enamel and are often surrounded by precious gems.
Blackamoor jewellery was particularly popular during the 17th and 18th centuries. The early examples often have European racial features, apart from the color. They are typically enamelled, carved from ebony or painted black to contrast with the bright colors of the embellishments. Depictions may only represent the head, or head and shoulders, facing the viewer in a symmetrical pose.
The blackamoor is typically male, depicted with a head covering, usually a turban, and covered in rich jewels and gold leaf. They are typically enamelled, carved from ebony or painted black to contrast with the bright colors of the embellishments. Depictions may only represent the head, or head and shoulders, facing the viewer in a symmetrical pose. Reference: Wikipedia
Blackamoor Jewellery Makers
Some notable blackamoor brooch makers include G Nardi, Butler and Wilson, Guliano and Castellani and Cartier,
The Blackamoor Clip Brooch above, is carved from wood, gilded and set with semi-precious gemstones including emeralds, sapphires and carnelian. This brooch sold at Bonhams for US$ 1,375. As you can see, the wood is has excellent carvings.
Blackamoor brooches can be very valuable as can be seen by the brooch below. A sapphire, emerald, cultured pearl and hardstone brooch, by Nardi.
The carved hardstone blackamoor with a bi-coloured turban accented with cabochon emeralds between ropetwist dividers surmounted by a fancy-cut garnet, and wearing an openwork engraved tunic set with cabochon emeralds the border set with cultured pearls and cabochon sapphires, to the engraved reverse, 5.5 cm long, in maker’s case and outer box. Signed Nardi. This brooch sold at Christie’s for GBP 3,000